By Melissa Moylan
This is what I’ve been up to lately. TWENTY-NINE THEMES across ladies and juniors from Spring 12 runway. Of course you could see it all on FASHIONSNOOPS.COM now, but here’s where I give you my personal outlook – the movers and the shakers that I feel influenced the season most.
MID CENTURY MODERN
Remember last month when I talked about Stepford Wives-cum-Hitchcock Heroines? The list of designers inspired by Dior’s New Lookgoes on and on, from the actual house of Dior (good timing) to Dolce & Gabbana, Rochas and Alexandre Herchcovitch.
Now if you know me, you know I’m a fan of silhouette direction and that happens to be the biggest component of Mid Century Modern. Ladylike fit n flare dresses and full skirts are a natural here, while pencil skirts return with the welcome addition of peplums attached to either tops or skirts.
The second most influential decade of reference was the Roaring 20s.. viaflapper and art deco decadence at Gucci and Etro. Connecting back to silhouette.. the dropped waist dress isn’t exactly the easiest (or most commercial) dress this season, however I definitely see this as a place forembellishment and fringe to live on.
Moving right along, one can not even speak about Spring 12 runway without talking about the explosion of color and pattern which took place at Ferragamo and Missoni. Most landed in some sort of tropical locale bursting with floral motifs and Hawaiian reference. For a more youthful take, check out Blumarine’s luau of pop brights and 50s shapes.
Another not-to-be-missed theme this season is anything sport related. Alexander Wang and Rag & Bone started off the conversation in New York on athletics while in Paris, Felipe Oliveira Baptista and Issey Miyake echoed parallel references ranging from moto sport to scuba. In all cases, this theme is a prime for color blocking and pieced construction to continue in a big way.
This season’s Modern Geometry theme stems from Minimalism.. a trend that is still very much alive and well, give or take the boxy shoulders. Modern Geometry combines sharp asymmetrical cuts and folds with a monochromatic color palette. The story doesn’t end there, with the next evolution of this trend being Futurist – a very forward techy vision of drastic architectural shapes.